

Zone | Bottom |
---|---|
Typical Items | Sleeping pad, tent, bivy gear |
Why it Works | Light items add structure, protect your back |
Zone | Middle |
Typical Items | Food, electronics, med kit, scope, extra water |
Why it Works | Heavy gear rides close to your spine and hips |
Zone | Top |
Typical Items | Puffy, rain gear, daily ration |
Why it Works | Medium-light gear stays accessible as needed |
Zone | Typical Items | Why it Works |
---|---|---|
Bottom | Sleeping pad, tent, bivy gear | Light items add structure, protect your back |
Middle | Food, electronics, med kit, scope, extra water | Heavy gear rides close to your spine and hips |
Top | Puffy, rain gear, daily ration | Medium-light gear stays accessible as needed |
Packing a multi-day hunting backpack is less about playing Tetris and more about smart weight distribution, efficient access, and building repeatable systems. This proven method is based on the Kifaru Absaroka backpack on an ARC frame, but the approach works with any internal-frame pack designed for meat hauling.
Your sleep system is generally the last layer of gear you need during the day. Packing it at the bottom of your pack not only helps with pack balance, but also keeps it out of your way during the day's hunt.
Food is the most dense item in your loadout. For an eight-day elk hunt, plan for 1.5 to 2 pounds per day. Where you place that weight makes a difference:
Surround this food core with other dense items:
Use compressible items to lock everything in place and prevent shifting:
Packing soft goods loose often uses less space than stuff sacks, especially when you're filling odd-shaped cavities between dense gear.
Keep high-use gear accessible without unpacking:
Packing the same way every time creates muscle memory. In weather or low light, that consistency makes gear access second nature.
Use hydration sleeves or side pouches for small items like saws, extra blades or batteries, places where they won’t disappear into the main pocket impossible to find without yard sailing.
Once packed, fine-tune the fit:
If the load feels top-heavy or pulls backward, redistribute dense gear lower and closer to the frame. Keep the pack anchored tight to your spine.
Pack it right, fit it right, and the miles to camp, or the meat haul back, will feel a whole lot shorter.
Sleeping Pad: Fold or roll your pad and lay it flat at the bottom of your pack. It’s bulky but light, and it creates a foundation for everything above it.
Shelter Components: Pack your bivy, tarp, or tent fly next, filling the lower corners. Tuck tent poles and stakes along the sides of the pad to prevent pressure against your back.
Sleeping Bag: Compress your sleeping bag in a waterproof stuff sack and lay it horizontally. A flat, pancake-style shape helps keep the next layer evenly distributed.
Against the frame: Pack heavy food bags tight to the back panel, centered between your lower back and shoulder blades.
Mid-pack height: Aim to keep it in the middle third of the pack, riding just above your hips.
Daily access: Keep one day’s ration in a labeled freezer bag on top so you don’t have to dig through your main supply.
Battery packs or banks
Kill kit and med gear
Spotting scope or extra lens (if not in an outer sleeve)
Backup water bottle or hard-sided container
Possibles pouch (fire kit, tags, tape, zip ties)
Game bags
Puffy jacket
Extra base layers
Gloves or beanie
Rain gear: Stuff jacket and pants in a front sleeve or lid pocket
Gloves and headlamp: Use small outer zips or hip-belt pouches
Water filter and snacks: Store in a side pocket or bottle holster you can reach on the move
Tighten the hip belt snugly across your iliac crest
Pull shoulder straps until the lumbar pad is engaged
Adjust load lifters to angle the pack 5 to 10 degrees over your shoulders
Sleep system packed low and flat
Food and dense gear centered mid-pack, close to the frame
Daily food and rain gear are staged on top or in an outer pocket
Soft goods filling gaps, silencing gear and reducing shifting
Quick-access essentials loaded externally